The complete used car inspection checklist

Half the work happens before you see the car. A good inspection is one where you already know what to look at first on this exact model.

• Identify the exact engine and transmission (displacement, fuel, model year): the same model can have very different reliability depending on the powertrain.
• List their common problems. See our guide to engines and transmissions to watch.
• Check open recalls with the VIN on nhtsa.gov. See how to do it.
• Compare the price with similar listings: same year, similar mileage, same trim.
• Ask by message: title status, number of owners, maintenance records, accidents, any loan on the car.

• Title: in the seller's name, with no brand such as salvage, rebuilt or flood. See salvage and rebuilt titles.
• Lien: if a lender is listed, you need a lien release before the sale.
• VIN: the 17-character number on the title must match the dashboard plate (through the windshield) and the driver's door jamb sticker.
• Maintenance records: oil changes, transmission service, timing belt if the engine has one.
• At a dealer: the Buyers Guide on the window tells you if the car is sold as is or with a warranty. See our Buyers Guide explainer.

Look at the car in daylight, on dry ground.

• Panel gaps and paint: uneven gaps or mismatched shades point to accident repair.
• Frame and underside: rust on the frame, rockers and brake lines, especially on cars from snowy states that salt their roads.
• Signs of flooding: musty smell, damp carpets, silt under the seats. See how to spot a flood car.
• Tires: matching brands and even wear; uneven wear means alignment or suspension issues.
• Glass and lights: windshield chips and cracks, foggy or mismatched headlights.

Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive. Touch the hood: if it's warm, be careful.

• Oil and coolant: correct levels, clean color, no milky residue under the oil cap.
• Leaks under the engine and transmission.
• Cold start: listen for rattles (timing chain, cam phasers), ticking (lifters) and watch the exhaust for blue or thick white smoke.
• Warning lights: they should all come on with the key, then go out. A check engine light that was recently cleared won't show yet, so ask.

• Transmission: smooth shifts, no slipping, no harsh or delayed engagement, especially from cold.
• Brakes: straight stops, no pulsing in the pedal.
• Steering and suspension: no pulling, no clunks over bumps.
• Highway speed: no vibration, stable temperature, cruise control working.
• Electronics: A/C and heat, windows, locks, infotainment, cameras.

Then take the car to an independent mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection, ideally on a lift and with a scan of the stored trouble codes. A seller who refuses is a warning sign.

Write down everything that needs money: it's your argument to negotiate the out-the-door price.