The complete used car viewing checklist

Half the work is done from your sofa. A good viewing is one where you already know what to look at first on this exact model.

• Identify the exact engine and gearbox (size, power, fuel, year): two versions of the same model can have opposite reliability.
• List the known faults of that engine. See our guide to engines with known problems.
• Check the MOT history for free on GOV.UK with the registration number: mileage readings, failures and advisories. See how to read it.
• Compare the price with similar cars: same year, similar mileage, same trim.
• Ask by message: number of owners, service history, date of the last timing belt or cambelt change, any outstanding finance.

If the paperwork isn't right, there's no point going further. Check it before you even open the bonnet.

• V5C logbook: the seller's name and the address where you're viewing the car. A seller who “hasn't got the logbook” is a red flag. See our V5C guide.
• VIN: the 17-character number on the V5C must match the one at the bottom of the windscreen and on the chassis plate.
• MOT: current certificate and the online history, with mileage readings that rise steadily.
• Service history: stamps are good, itemised invoices are better. Look for the timing belt, gearbox oil and any major repairs.
• Write-off and finance: ask directly whether the car has a Cat S or Cat N marker or outstanding finance.

Walk around the car in daylight, on dry ground. A car shown in the rain or after dark hides its faults better.

• Panel gaps around doors, bonnet and boot: uneven gaps often mean accident repair.
• Paint: differences in shade between panels, overspray on rubber seals or trim.
• Rust: sills, wheel arches, door bottoms and the boot floor, especially on cars used through salted winters.
• Tyres: matching brands on each axle and even wear. Wear on one edge points to an alignment problem.
• Glass and lights: chips in the windscreen (an MOT issue in the driver's view), misted or mismatched headlights.

Ask the seller not to run the car before you arrive. Put your hand on the bonnet: if it's warm, be wary.

• Oil level and colour on the dipstick; mayonnaise-like residue under the filler cap can mean a head gasket problem.
• Coolant: correct level, clean colour, no oily film.
• Leaks under the engine and gearbox, and fresh cleaning that could hide them.
• Cold start: listen for rattles (timing chain), squeals (belts) and watch the exhaust for blue or thick white smoke.
• Warning lights: they should all light up with the ignition, then go out. A missing light can hide a fault.

Make sure you're insured to drive the car before the test drive. Drive for at least 20 minutes on different roads.

• Clutch and gearbox: smooth changes, no crunching, no judder when pulling away. On an automatic, no slipping or harsh shifts.
• Brakes: straight-line braking, no vibration in the pedal or steering wheel.
• Steering and suspension: no pulling to one side, no knocks over bumps.
• Engine: smooth acceleration, no hesitation, temperature stable.
• Electrics: air conditioning, windows, central locking, infotainment and parking sensors.

Write down everything that needs money: tyres, advisories on the MOT, a weak air conditioning. Each item is an argument to negotiate the price.